Category Archives: Arms

10/22 Precision Rifles

KIDD 10/22 in Archangel stock, Ruger 10/22 with Feddersen barrel in Vantage stock

These are both Ruger 10/22 style rifles built for shooting .22LR with maximum accuracy. On top is an $860 rifle built entirely by KIDD Innovative Design. The receiver and trigger are milled from aluminum, and the bolt from hardened steel. The single-stage trigger is also a crisply machined assembly that adjusts down to a pull of just 1.5 pounds. The lightweight barrel is guaranteed to group inside of half an inch at 50 yards. The gun here is screwed into a comfortable $100 ProMag Archangel Target stock

Do you have to spend $1000 to get an accurate .22 rifle? Expert barrel maker Fred Feddersen says one of his $170 barrels will turn an off-the-rack Ruger into a gun that can compete with any custom autoloader. So the second gun shown is a standard Ruger 10/22 receiver and bolt onto which I swapped Feddersen’s barrel. Of course I don’t think I can really shoot that well with a standard trigger, so to be fair I bought another $200 KIDD trigger assembly for it. The gun is shown here screwed into a beautiful $175 Tactical Solutions Vantage laminated stock.

Testing

The ammo shortage continues to plague the market for .22LR, so I consider myself lucky to still have four different types of ammo on hand. I screwed an AAC Element suppressor to each barrel, put each rifle in the Archangel stock, mounted the same high-power scope, and shot ten-round groups at 50 yards with the following subsonic 40gr loads:

  • Eley Match
  • SK+
  • CCI HP
  • Aguila SuperExtra

I have plenty of the Aguila on hand, so I used that for sighting and shot two groups with that. The Ruger/Feddersen fired all 50+ shots without any hiccups. The KIDD began to bog down at the end, experiencing a few failures to fire or extract on the Aguila. Cleaning the chamber and bolt face and testing some more showed it’s capable of running smoothly when clean, but evidently it doesn’t like too much of the copious .22LR fouling to build up. Do those tighter tolerances translate to higher precision?
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Rimfire Suppressors: Lessons and Warnings

One of my first suppressors, registered ten years ago, was a GEMTECH Outback-II: a lightweight can designed for the diminutive pressure and volume generated by .22LR cartridges. As was common at the time the suppressor was not designed to be routinely opened and cleaned.

This is a big mistake for a .22LR suppressor, and here’s why: .22 rimfires are very dirty. Over time layers of condensed lead, hardened with powder byproducts and bullet lubricant, will accumulate on the baffles that are supposed to disperse the propellant gasses inside the can. After thousands of rounds the silencer can double or triple in weight and lose most of its sound attenuation as it clogs with lead.

A few years ago one licensed manufacturer, SRI, began to “jailbreak” old suppressors that weren’t originally designed to be cleaned: for a few hundred dollars they clean or replace the old core and fit an endcap that can be easily unscrewed. Curious as to just how bad the problem can be I decided to open my Outback II. (Doing this in a non-destructive fashion took quite a bit of work, a lot of penetrating lubricant, and a few special tools.) Here is what the baffles looked like:

Outback-II aluminum baffles after thousands of rounds

For comparison, my latest rimfire suppressor is an AAC Element II, designed to be routinely opened and cleaned, and here is what its baffle stack looks like when new:

Baffle stack from AAC Element II suppressor

Partially sandblasted aluminum baffles from old Outback-II suppressorJust how bad is that fouling? I spent about two hours with a sandblaster trying to clean the Outback’s aluminum baffles. Here’s a picture with two done and two just begun:

I can see why many consider it better to just replace the baffles once they’re this bad. The fouling on the inside cone of the first baffle was so stubborn I simply could not get it off with a sandblaster. Some people report better results wet tumbling baffles with steel pins for a day or two. However any mechanical cleaning strong enough to remove the lead alloy that builds up will eventually degrade the facets of the baffles themselves — especially those made of aluminum.

Is this avoidable? One experienced gunsmith I know has always applied lithium grease every few hundred rounds to his rimfire silencers. After thousands of rounds his suppressors have no buildup that can’t be wiped off with a cloth. Anti-seize and other heavy lubricants are also used for this purpose.

Lessons learned:

  1. Don’t buy a rimfire suppressor you can’t open to lubricate and clean.
  2. If you have a sealed suppressor you shoot a lot of unjacketed bullets through then eventually you’ll need to get it opened and cleaned.

AR-15 “Pistol” PDW

AR-15 .300BLK Pistol PDW

This is my recent AR-15 pistol build. The upper assembly from CMMG was $700 and features a KeyMod free-float handguard and 8″ medium barrel. It is chambered in .300BLK, which is currently the most versatile and efficient AR-15 caliber for such short barrels. I assembled the lower from a Seekins Precision forged receiver, Phase 5 Tactical pistol buffer tube, Noveske QD end plate, CMC 3.5lb single-stage trigger, and Stark SE-2 grip. Total component cost for the lower was $450. Unloaded weight for the complete firearm is only five pounds.

A generation ago sub-machine guns were the middle ground between handguns and full-power rifles. A famous photo from moments after the 1981 assassination attempt on President Reagan shows a Secret Service agent readying an Uzi he had produced from a nearby briefcase. We have since learned that power is more important than volume of fire, and that guns on full-auto with concealable magazines run empty far too quickly. Today the niche between handguns and long guns is filled with rifle-caliber “personal defense weapons” (PDWs), which are powerful enough for a serious gun fight but still portable enough for every day use and potential concealment.

AR-15 Pistol and Short-Barreled Rifle (SBR) lowersThe advantage of a “pistol” AR-15 is that it can be equipped with a barrel shorter than 16″ without the hassles of registering it as a Short-Barreled Rifle (SBR). What qualifies it as a pistol is that it doesn’t have a full stock or second vertical grip, yet the buffer tube required for the AR-15 to function can serve in a pinch as a three- or four-point mount, providing accuracy on par with a traditional carbine. (The ATF, struggling to make 80-year-old laws look reasonable in spite of evolutions in gun design and tactics, recently ruled that even arm braces do not turn a pistol into an SBR.)
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NFA Rules on Pistols, PDWs, AOWs, and SBRs

The National Firearms Act (NFA) was enacted in 1934 in an attempt to control weapons popular in Prohibition era gang warfare. After eighty years its implementation by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (ATF) has become rather strange, and its controls on items like short barrels and suppressors seem archaic.

The following infographic shows a variant of the XCR with a 10″ barrel. This is a piston-operated autoloading firearm that can chamber a variety of light rifle cartridges. Under federal law the top three configurations are considered pistols, and no special controls apply to their construction, sale, or possession. (State laws can vary widely on these matters, so those are not addressed here.)

Something weird happens in the fourth configuration: Adding a second vertical grip turns it into an NFA-regulated firearm called an “Any Other Weapon” (AOW), and would be a felony if the receiver were not already registered as an AOW.

To comply with the NFA I had to use a different receiver registered as a Short-Barreled Rifle (SBR) for the last picture.

Infographic: NFA Rules on Pistols, AOW, and SBR

Note from a Hollywood Armorer

I managed to get some excellent answers from an experienced Hollywood armorer.  My inquiry:

I was curious to talk to armorers on top-budget productions because (like many gun enthusiasts) I don’t understand how so much bad gun use makes it onto the set, much less the screen. Especially by the time they’ve invested in bringing NFA items and real blanks into the production.

The simple form of my question is: What input, if any, does or can an armorer have into a scene, both in development and in production?

For example, in storyboarding are the actual style or even model of guns specified? Is the armorer included in any of that? Or does the armorer not get called until production with something like, “Bring a big, shiny revolver.”

Is the armorer ever consulted for reality checks? Like during choreography is he asked, “How would a trained operator manipulate this particular gun?” Or is he just supposed to tell the actors and directors what they can’t do for safety’s sake and otherwise stay out of the way?

Is the armorer’s input ever welcome? E.g., if he has just supplied a bolt gun and he sees the scene is going to be cut so that it appears to be running like a high-capacity autoloader what happens if he says, “Hey guys, let me give you a gun that would work better here?”

The answer is … it depends. Every production is different.

The whole thing begins with a script. This is the very first thing I ask for, long before we have talked about schedules, budgets or firearms options.

When I break down the script, I look at the firearms and I look at what would make sense for the character and their backstory. Crooks get different guns than cops; crooks that are ex-military get different guns than street hoods; crooks that have money get different guns than crooks who found something in a drawer.

The guns are characters in the story too, and they have their own personalities and backstories themselves. They are not accidental or random choices; they always need to make sense.

By the way, we basically ignore what the writer puts in the script. I hate it when someone searches the internet for something that looks cool but doesn’t make sense. To me, when the character “pulls a handgun from his waistband,” that’s all I need. If the writer puts down that the character pulls a “.44 Magnum Desert Eagle from his waistband” then I ignore it as someone who knows the writer doesn’t have a clue about guns and how difficult it is to even get a blank-firing Desert Eagle to work properly with a 20 pound slide, let alone how unpopular I am going to be with the actor when they are forced to carry this huge monstrosity through the entire movie. (In their waistband? Hahaha.)

I will then come up with suggestions and show the options to the director and propmaster. All prop decisions are made in full consultation with the propmaster, the weapons handler, the director, the producers, and the art director. There are so many factors that go into the final decision. It is not all about the look. It is also about cost, time and availability.

From that point onward, it highly depends on the size of the budget and the care that the director wants in a scene. In some cases, I will work hours or days with an actor, getting their actions to be believable. In other cases, the director wants me to show up, hand the cast a big shiny revolver, keep them safe and go home.

When possible, I will work with the actor on both the blank-firing firearms and real firearms. It is something they get to do rarely and it makes a huge difference in how they approach safety and their character’s handling skills.

I will also work with the props crew on making sure all the equipment is on the right spot for the cops, and will help outfit everyone from actors to extras. Other times, they bring me in only to handle the firearms that will fire blanks and it is way too late to fix mistakes in equipment placement or techniques.

Some directors want perfection and I will work for a long time making someone look real. (On the Sam Jackson movie I just finished, I spent over four hours working with an actress getting the right look for a five-second scene.)

Other times they don’t care and won’t pay for any more than show up and keep people safe.

So sometimes we have almost total control of what firearms to use and how to use them, and other times we have little to no input beyond keeping people safe. If a director wants it done in a certain way and I know it is wrong, my response is to deliver the scene the way they want it shot. If they want to pay me and listen to my input on technical accuracy – no problem; that’s what I do. If they just want me to show up and stay out of the way unless it’s a safety issue, that’s what I do too.

While you would think my job was to keep the cast and crew safe, the reality is that I am there to not only keep them safe but to make sure they feel safe. This is why the firearms expert is often low key, quiet, confident and knows how to get along with everyone. They are never the ex-SWAT or ex-military bravado “operators” because it is all about inspiring quiet confidence so the actors can concentrate on their jobs.

This is one of the reasons why I get along so well with the actors I work with (and why they have trusted me to work with some of the top names in Hollywood in a career spanning over 20 years.)

Here is the bottom line: if an actor makes a mistake, they get another take. If the firearms expert makes a mistake, you will read about it in a thousand newspapers in the morning. I don’t make mistakes.

And if you are truly interested in why you see so much bad handling and poor techniques in films and TV shows, I can tell you. We don’t make movies for gun enthusiasts; we make movies to entertain the audience. If any kid can learn the correct way to hold a gun and shoot someone with it for the price of a movie ticket, that kind of defeats the purpose of the training I do for the “good guys.” (Yes, I train real military, police and SWAT when I am not training actors.) So, yes, many times those aren’t “mistakes.” We do it on purpose.

You note that sometimes the producers go out of their way to involve you, to get the gun “characters” right. If a production is paying attention to getting the weapons right is the armorer typically the guy they consult, or is it common for them to use other “tactical” consultants to specify guns and choreography and just use the armorer for props and safety?

Everyone works together as a team. Technical consultants can have as little or as much say in the selection as I do. However, generally, technical consultants do NOT have input on firearms because firearms are the responsibility of the props department. They never fall under stunts, special effects or special talent (such as technical advisers.) On the other hand, smart props people use the resources at their disposal to get the best product they can, within the bounds of time and money.

I understand that the primary objective of a production is to entertain, and that explains a lot of the classic gripes – guns with bottomless mags, suppressors that make funny noises and spout fireballs, guns used for their looks without regard to their function, dramatic instead of tactically correct choreography. I can also appreciate your last comment: you’re not working for Panteo productions. But some of the oversights are so grating I just can’t understand how anybody close to a serious production can let them happen.

You are talking about post production, in which we have zero control. Editors take thousands of hours of footage and edit it down to 90 minutes. They can take 40 to 80 takes of the same scene and use the various wide-shots, close-ups and insert shots to construct the scenes. When we film those various takes, the director always wants lots of options, and they do it a variety of different ways. They could take a bit from this take and a bit from that take. This is how you end up with double-barrel shotguns that fire eight rounds without reloading. Editors know nothing about firearms and they will never hire me to help with the editing because they cut for the look, not the technical accuracy.

Sound designers and sound effects editors are the same. They will throw in a shotgun pumping sound, no matter the type of action, and sounds they think the audience needs to hear instead of the actual sounds. (Actual gunshots are NEVER used because they would sound like nothing in the theatre; everything from the muzzle flashes to the gun shot sounds must be punched up for the audience.)

Once it leaves the actual set, it is totally out of our hands. This is why one can NEVER blame the on-set crew for what gun enthusiasts perceive as “mistakes,” simply because it could be done in editing; it could be done in the sound rooms; or it could be done simply because that’s the way the director, producers and editors wanted it.

As for choreography, this is why I never work with real SWAT teams to film SWAT sequences. They want to argue every step and tell everyone that they wouldn’t do it this way. But we need to see the faces of the characters and we need to see their expressions and hear their dialogue. The choreography will NEVER be correct because it’s not a training video. Gun enthusiasts need to let that go.

One recurring feature that has been driving me crazy for years is the cops or agents walking into an armed confrontation carrying nothing but handguns, even though we know that they’d have long guns in their cars. This happens in big-budget productions that can obviously afford NFA props because often the faceless tactical teams following the stars are carrying them. But time after time the stars lead the charge with handguns. Can you please explain why this happens?

Two simple answers. The film you are watching today was made two to four years ago. Long arms and patrol rifles were still new to most police officers four years ago.

(In fact, they are still new today. In spite of what you read in the American gun magazines, fewer than one third of uniformed police officers in North America have access to patrol rifles in their marked cars. Fewer than 10% of plainclothes officers have access to patrol rifles OR shotguns in unmarked cars.)

The second reason is that rifles and shotguns obscure faces. You will see them on the extras but almost never on the main characters.

Just remember, we are entertaining an audience. We are not making training videos.

Hollywood Reality Check: Stun Guns and Tasers

Not long ago the knockout myth was a staple of action shows: Heroes could drop victims cold with a single karate-chop to the back of the head, then carry on with no concern they would regain consciousness before the end of the scene. Fortunately, increasing awareness of the seriousness of brain injury has relegated this plot device to farces. In reality any blow that knocks somebody out for longer than a few minutes is likely to cause extended and often permanent brain damage.

But Hollywood has replaced the knockout blow with an even more absurd gag: the stun gun, which with a single zap appears to drop victims to the ground and render them unconscious long enough to be moved and tied up. The reality is that electroshock weapons are far less reliable and effective, but also very interesting.

Typical Stun GunBasic electroshock weapons are often misleadingly called stun guns. They create a high voltage charge between two electrodes. When pressed against a conductor like human skin low current flows through the conductor between the electrodes. The current triggers pain receptors, so the victim feels extreme pain, but the sensation is localized to the area between the electrodes. The shock may be startling, but its effects are limited to the individual’s reaction to pain. A typical person will recoil from the shock and try to avoid continued contact. An angry person might just get more angry.

In order to cause more dramatic reactions electric current needs to travel through muscle. Taser International pioneered the development and publicity of electroshock weapons that can cause major muscle groups to involuntarily seize up, usually resulting in victims falling to the ground, incapacitated. There is some fascinating science behind the exact methods Taser uses to achieve these results without endangering a victim’s heart, worth reading in this feature by the IEEE.Taser X26

But Tasers are not magic wands: A lot has to go right for them to work effectively.

First, the electroshock effect only lasts as long as the current runs: As soon as the current stops or the circuit is broken the victim suffers no lingering impairment. To maintain contact Taser electrodes are actually hypodermic barbs. (This fact surprised me, especially since the barbs often punch through clothing and draw blood. A Taser engineer I talked to noted that more than a million people have been voluntarily “tased” and there have been no reports of associated infections. He mused that the electric current may have a sterilizing effect, though there has been no scientific study on that question.)

Electrodes have to span core muscle groups to cause incapacitation. If the barbs are too close to each other their current path, and hence their effects, will be localized. The electroshock effect also depends on where the electrodes hit: Areas with few muscles and nerves, like the lower rib cage, do not reliably incapacitate. However Taser electrodes are also barbed on their sides so that a victim attempting to pull them out to stop the pain will likely complete a highly incapacitating circuit leading from his hand through his chest to the other electrode.

Because the electrodes need some separation Tasers are ideally discharged from a short distance. Two electrodes are propelled from the weapons with an 8 degree vertical spread. In less ideal conditions one electrode can miss, in which case the victim gets no shock. Or the victim could be too close for the electrodes to spread adequately. In those circumstances Taser trains users to “drive” the weapon into contact with the victim: in addition to the fired electrodes a Taser cartridge contains contact electrodes, and its circuitry can detect which one to energize to complete the largest circuit on the victim.

It is possible to “armor” against Tasers by wearing conductive clothing or spray-on coatings. However if you’re armoring yourself against Tasers you should consider that the next steps in the escalation of force are impact weapons or firearms, which will more likely cause serious injury or death. (This is why Tasers are so popular with law enforcement: In many scenarios they can cut short altercations that would otherwise require officers to tackle or grapple subjects, resulting in frequent injuries to both parties. Although that benefit has been tarnished by disturbingly many incidents in which officers abuse Tasers to inflict pain or assert power in non-violent confrontations.)

So, clearly Hollywood is getting it wrong when they depict simple stun guns incapacitating people, or advanced electroshock weapons like Tasers knocking people out. Please stop.

The Problem With Nickel-Boron

A few months ago I discussed metals and coatings for firearm actions. I noted the NiB (nickel-boron) gets discolored by fouling, but my photos only showed a sparkling new NiB-X BCG. Following is a picture of what it looks like after a few hundred rounds of use, followed by ultrasonic cleaning and then aggressive scrubbing with steel and brass wire brushes. For comparison I show my heavily-used chromed BCG on top.

AR-15 bolts: Chrome and NiB-X, as clean as they get

Is this just a cosmetic issue? This is the only cleaning I’ve given the NiB BCG. I haven’t lubed it and I have subsequently run a few hundred rounds more without any action failures. However it seems plausible that if fouling can bind to the surface this stubbornly it could build up to the point of overtaking the nickel-boron’s lubricity and causing a stoppage that only traditional lubricants prevent. As noted in the original article this is not a problem with chrome and NP3: All photos of those to date have been after they were used and wiped clean with minimal brushing.

Update: A number of people say it’s unfair to compare a BCG from a piston gun to one from a DI gun, since the latter is subject to much harsher fouling. So for comparison I pulled and cleaned an NP3-coated BCG I’ve been running in a DI gun: pictures in my comment below.

Reloading Adventures: Rounds Stuck in Chambers

I reload for half a dozen guns in .308 Winchester. Reloading is a lot easier if you only have to neck-size fired cases. Until recently I kept all brass segregated by rifle, and only “full-length” case-sized brass that came out of semi-autos (which are under enough pressure during extraction to bulge the case body). Then I thought I’d get clever and see if any chambers were cross-compatible, allowing me to use brass fired in one gun in others without full resizing. Sure enough, a handful of fired cases suggested that all my bolt-guns were interchangeable.

However, since this apparent epiphany I have broken a CTR stock, a Savage bolt handle, and five cleaning rods in the process of extracting rounds stuck in chambers. I have also resolved to small-base-size any case that isn’t being reloaded for the bolt gun in which it was last fired. Here are some nuances I’ve learned.

Evidently fired case size isn’t consistent. Even though I’ve been using a single lot of brass, not all loads fully form the case to the chamber. Presumably even if I stuck with the same load the brass would exhibit different springback on subsequent reloadings as it work hardens.

I eventually discovered that my DTA chamber has a relatively large base, which led to my other painful discovery: “full-length” rifle sizing dies do not necessarily size the whole case. For example, when properly set, my Lee full-length .308 die doesn’t even cover the bottom quarter inch of a case. Only a “small-base” sizing die will ensure the entire case is squeezed back into spec.

My other irritating discovery is that few “case gauges” check for full chamber fit. The Wilson case gauges I had been using all along are actually overbored to ensure they can measure fire-formed brass. They are only meant to check headspace and trim length. The fact that a case clears a Wilson gauge is insufficient to determine whether it will chamber in any gun. The only gauge I could find to guarantee chamber fit is the blue JP Enterprises one in the middle of this picture:

L.E. Wilson gauge, JP Enterprises gauge, formerly stuck round

The JP gauge is cut to the minimum SAAMI chamber spec, which means that if a round clears it and fails to chamber you’ve got a chamber problem, not a case size problem. But we’re talking about very fine tolerances. The round in the JP gauge in the picture is actually oversize enough to jam in my Savage. You can barely tell that by looking, but you can feel the base protruding ever-so-slightly at the rear of the gauge.
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Hand-discharging loaded rounds

Hand-fired loaded round

This sequence shows me discharging a loaded round I couldn’t disassemble. There is no reason to ever do something like this other than brazen curiosity. If you want to disable a live round you should pull the bullet and dump the powder. If for some reason that fails a safer alternative to discharging it is to “cook it off” in an open pit fire. (Ensure that anyone not wearing a face shield and thick clothing stands clear until it pops.)

Firearm cartridges are not particularly powerful or dangerous unless they are tightly confined. Without a gun barrel to contain and direct the pressure smokeless powder burns slowly, if at all, and bullets are propelled only by the force of the primer. (Granted, primers are not toys. They are true explosives. Small firearm primers produce 5-10 foot-pounds of energy, and can produce pressures on the order of 25kpsi in a small closed chamber. Like firecrackers, they can burn and maim.)

The round I had on my hands contained a full load of powder that turned out to be too fast for the bullet. I managed to pull the rest of the batch, but one bullet came out and left its copper gas check in the case. In that condition it could have been safely fired in a gun, except that it could have badly fouled the bore depending on how the gas check engaged it. So instead I drilled a hole in a piece of wood to tightly hold the case neck, put on leather and a face shield, then detonated the primer with a steel punch.

Integral .300BLK case and bullet on the left; hand-fired case and bullet missing gas check on right

An integral pulled bullet and case are shown left. The hand-fired case and bullet missing its gas check are on the right.

The problem with any containment when discharging a round is that without experience and knowledge of the case and powder you may be surprised at where the force ends up. The unsupported case could become a projectile or fail and produce shrapnel. The bullet and any other particles in the path of the venting gases can also be ejected almost anywhere. The setup above was carefully planned to allow for the worst possible outcome in every dimension. What actually happened is that the case neck held fast in its hole in the upper plank and the unsupported annealed upper body was blown out by the pressure, but did not fail. The gas check ended up embedded in the bottom plank directly below, and the gas was able to vent out the gap between the planks, blowing only minor wooden debris along with it.